Tucked beside the old fire station on St-Mathieu, Ravioli Manchuria is the latest addition to what's beginning to feel like a burgeoning second Chinatown. The greasy noodle pits of Ste-Catherine have paved the way for more interesting Chinese grocers and snack joints on the side streets, offering everything from bubble tea to bok choy.
Fat orange lanterns alert you to the location of Ravioli Manchuria. Go up the stairs to enter a basic and tidy room, with a hi-tech digital clock on the wall. At the back, you can select plates of cold meat to start with, such as slices of pork studded with cucumber, chicken feet, pig feet and tripe. They're good to snack on while you wait for your dumplings, I'm told. Or you can just nibble on wasabi-flavoured chips or sweet-salty sunflower seeds that the waiter will pop on the table while you check out the menu.
To my knowledge, Montreal hasn't had a proper dumpling house since Joz in NDG closed down years ago. Here, you can see the chef in the back pounding out dough, preparing it to be filled with blends of meat
Dumplings come by the dozen and a half at this joint, steamed or fried. Although 18 sounds like a lot of dumplings to share, you may be asked if that's enough. Pour vinegar into a dipping dish, add a bit of soy sauce if you like, maybe some chili paste.
One lunch I shared a plate of the pale beauties with a gossip-mate, ate the rightfully popular "fish-fragrance shredded meat pork" (a spicy and goopy pea and pork mix) and slurped a soup of pickled cabbage and pork blood with glass noodles (called rice noodles on the menu).
The evening I went with my dumpling-eager partner, we ordered the slightly sour pork and chive plumpies along with a dish of thin slices of lamb with loads of cumin seeds and a lovely gingery cabbage, and a garlic-mushroom combo. The scent of garlic lingered in the air, the dumplings were hot and toothsome. It's far too easy to overeat here. But just ask for some of the eight-ingredient tea to set your digestive system right and to witness the spectacle of the peculiar pot.
Ravioli Manchuria
1441 St-Mathieu
935-2321
Meal for two, no tax, no tip: $12-$25
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