Bohemian rhapsody
Catherine Macpherson
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Ze many charms of Le Zigoto
photo: Marianne McEwen
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Purveyor of healthy comfort food in Mile End, artsy café Le Zigoto fits right in
This city is lousy with cafés, a facet of urban life I sorely missed whilst living in more café-deprived metropolises, and one I was happy to reconnect with upon returning to Montreal. Heck, even some local financial institutions boast in-house cafés, although I'm not entirely sure that I would relish whiling away my afternoons with a banker and a cuppa.If Montreal is the café capital of North America, Mile End may be the café capital of Montreal. Why review yet another bobo-chic, tea-and-sympathy enterprise in this hood? Because Le Zigoto goes beyond the standard croissant-and-panini lineup to offer some genuinely tasty alternatives to basic café fare. Plus, they may have some of the cheapest cups of fair trade, organic coffee and espresso on offer ($2.45 for a small café au lait or cappuccino).
The organic-ness extends to the café's interior. The floor is made from reclaimed wood. Most of the furniture is second-hand yet so tastefully chosen that it looks like it's fresh from the showroom; the regular rotation of great, local artwork adds to the gallery vibe. A shelf at the back holds games and crayons to keep the kiddies happy, and if you can't linger for one of the café's musical soirées, the to-go cups are eco-friendly.
On a recent lunch, the herbed chicken and marinated red pepper sandwich, served with a small side of potato salad, impressed us, mostly due to the full, roasty flavour from the tender chunks of chicken; it was a pleasant surprise to have the delicious meat be so worth
noting. Other sammies include a hummus, red pepper, onion and fresh herb combo, Genoa and Calabrese salami with goat cheese and tomato, and breakfast sandwiches (served all day) such as the herbed omelette with goat cheese, onions and tomatoes or with bacon and Emmental, served on toasted country bread. Try some toast with labneh, that tangy, impossibly thick strained Lebanese yogurt served with tomato, onion and fresh mint. "Classic" breakfasts are served on weekends.There is always a daily vegetarian and vegan special. The plates include salad (greens and tomatoes with a tart, lemony dressing), soup of the day (an earthy mushroom and lentil number on our visit) and the entrée. Cabbage rolls stuffed with chickpeas, rice, tomatoes and plenty of fresh herbs and garlic tasted about as healthy as comfort food can get, or vice versa. Vibrant yet homey, the rolls were very tasty and not too filling. Hummus and slices of country bread rounded out the generous special.
We overheard a discussion between Laurance Chediac (co-proprietor) and an employee discussing the finer points of soups and whether socca (the chickpea flour crèpes of Nice) or pissaladière (another southern French specialty of dough topped with caramelized onions and anchovies) could be offered on the menu. Yes, please!
The Mediterranean influences, primarily Lebanese, add zest, tang and a certain freshness to the menu. "Glacées" of rose, blackberry or date syrups, mixed with soda and served over ice, are dreamy refreshers and go down particularly well with a comfy chair in the sunny front window. And pastries, including homemade muffins and brownies, plus maamoul, traditional Lebanese cookies filled with pistachios, walnuts or dates, are the perfect accompaniment to a $2 organic, fair-trade espresso.
Le Zigoto
5731 Parc Ave.
514-867-9005
lezigotocafe.blogspot.com
Dinner (or lunch) for two, before beverages, taxes and tip: $15-$22
