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This week's column
 

January 27th, 2005
La Tosca
Write a comment on this article !
Read members’ comments [8]

Surf, not turf
Maeve Haldane
 


La Tosca: The novelty of nostalgia
photo: Dominic Gauthier

Go for the finer foods at this Italian BYOB

With a nice bottle of amarone tucked under my arm, I greeted my two gal pals who were graciously tolerant of my tardiness. Fortunately, La Tosca is an agreeable place in which to wait. The BYOB Italian, in deep Plateau territory, has a relaxed homey air that makes you think it's been there forever. Dark wainscoting halfway up the stucco walls gives it a retro air, as do the whiff-of-cheese pillars festooned with fake flowers by the front door. "It's reassuring somehow," said my wistful friend. "I haven't lived in Montreal all my life but if I did I would have come here with my parents... or is it just a flood of imagined memories?" She figures the planted nostalgia was partly due to the '70s-style photos of food, flowers and violins. We were surprised to learn from our waitress that La Tosca had only been open seven months.

A good Italian BYOB is so hard to come by, pointed out the Siciliana of our group. Prices are reasonable, the chef is himself Sicilian, garlic was in the air: Hopes were high.

We augmented our tables d'hôte of soup, main, coffee and a small dessert with a few appetizers, choosing from among salads, fried seafood and other temptations. The bruschetta suffered from wintertime tomatoes, but the spicy, fennel-rich sausage in tomato sauce with onions was stunning. Eggplant rounds gratin also had a nice, light tomato sauce, but the cheese topping was a little hardened.

We all found the cream of vegetable soup underseasoned, and alas, the Siciliana's veal in port sauce was a
tad bland. Happily, the seafood linguine in a delicate wine and cream sauce, ringed with a Stonehenge of mussels in their shells, more than made up for it. So did my seafood casserole, plump with fat shrimp and small scallops in a comforting creamy-cheesy, oomphy goo.

When offered pasta or veggies as a side, opt for the former, which was perfectly al dente in a softly garlicky tomato sauce.

A pattern seemed to emerge. The more delicate dishes fared better, and we suspect the chef knows his way around surf more than turf. I'm curious how he'd handle his fish of the day, and bet that the other pasta dishes are done with a deft touch. There's a chicken "briefcase" that could be promising - poultry enfolding prosciutto, cheese and mushrooms.

The table d'hôte dessert is a simple fresh fruit salad. We splurged for a generous slab of tiramisu, soaked with sambuca and made with real mascarpone cheese, not the usual hybrid cream cheese-ricotta. "When you take a bite, run your tongue through the cheese and feel the difference," la Siciliana advised us. The amaretto cake had a supermarket look but was booze soaked and juicy. Both superlative desserts were made off the premises, showing that this guy knows where to shop.

"This is a good date place because it'd look like you're not trying too hard," Wistful said. La Siciliana agreed. "It's not an obvious choice, and you can comment on the authenticity of the mascarpone."

La Tosca
5071 Papineau; 529-3030
Dinner for two, not including tax or tip: $32-$60
 
 



Write your comment on this article!


What the right hand gives, the left one takes...  
 
It seems to be another restaurant where, seeing Montrealers picky about ordering wine, they offer a BYOW, considering people are cheap...and on the other side, they try to blow out the bill with high price menu. A rip off for the quality of food. Is not better of any other italian restaurant in the 15-30$ range...plus you can make a matching mistake with the wine. A place to avoid, unless you want to show off...

Jean Goulet
{3 votes}
March 29th, 2005

Not to good  
 
For $32-60$ not including tip, who are they kidding. For that pirce I would expect the food
the be delicious from a to z. Seems their specialty is seafood and dessert. I guess if you
want some fish and something sweet its the place to go but not for me.

Rita Reale
{28 votes}
January 30th, 2005

La Tosca  
 
I have no doubt that they may have excellent food to offer the client. But Hey the price is a little steep and that can turn anyone away. Money does not grow on trees and as much as we need to eat , we don't need to splurge this way.
There are alot of Italian Restaurants in the City to compete with but it is the price that will get you in the end.Quality does not have to come with a high price tag , to prove itself. I wish you all the best luck !

Maria Cecillia Silva
{26 votes}
January 30th, 2005

Expensive But Delightful  
 
I have been to "La Tosca" before and let me tell you that it is a fine restaurant to dine at. What is really good about this restaurant is that the atmosphere is nice and I enjoy the setting. I have only been to this restaurant one time for a party because my last girlfriend was Italian and her parents had an anniversary party and the waiters and waitresses kind and acted very professional. Yes it costs more but the quality of the service is so much better compared to other dives that I have eaten at. La Tosca is a five star restaurant and it is a huge hit in my book.

Gerry Samson
{23 votes}
January 28th, 2005

Mange elsewhere  
 
Price sounds to steep when you could go to Eduardo Laurier's for much less and a get a guaranteed good italian meal. However, If the service is good it might be worth a try if you live in the Plateau. Tiramisu is hard to find here and well made Tiramisu is like finding a pear in your oyster....good luck!

P. Eric Poirier
{14 votes}
January 28th, 2005

La Tosca hits a flat note with me  
 
Too far.
Too much.
Too little here to make me even try.
I'll take a wild shot in the dark here that no one is terribly overwhelmed with this review. At $32-$60 for two I doubt that even hard liquor will make me for get that I'm being taken for a culinary ride. Bring your own bottle? What the hell for? As it is I barely want to bring my ass let alone my assets to this place. It doesn't sound terrible but just doesn't sound impressive either. This is impressive but that is not. This is good but that's just ok, I guess. Etc...
When it comes to food you either serve up the goods or you don't even bother. Folks, doing a half-assed job only counts in proctology, not cuisine.

Pedro Eggers
{30 votes}
January 27th, 2005

La Tosca- Tossed to the Bottom of my List  
 
Personally, I think spending $32-$60 at an Italian restaurant is alot, especially when many of the dishes got a thumbs down. Sounds like great desserts, but they are bought at a bakery rather than being homemade???? I can go to a bakery myself and purchase delicious amaretto cake at probably a fraction of the cost of what they charge at the restaurant. Sorry, but I think we can do a whole lot better!

Heath Abram
{15 votes}
January 27th, 2005

Not a bargain !  
 
Ive been to this restaurant last week and didnt love it too much. My wine glass had water stains on it and the food was a little lame.... perhaps I would have liked this restaurant a long time ago when I didnt have taste buds.



Nathalie Verbruggen

March 26th, 2005


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