Cocagne: Braise of glory photo: Joseph Yarmush

I hadn't meant for it to be a working meal (for they do take on a different tenor), but Cocagne (in the space formerly known as Toqué) was so good that it'd be a shame to keep the experience to ourselves. The name refers to the medieval-era imaginary land of plenty (Cockaigne in English), and here fantastical was made tangible thanks to chef Alexandre Loiseau, once of La Bastide.

The open space was alluring, the neutral (but thankfully not taupe) colours soothing enough. I took quiet delight in how the streetlight cast a backward shadow of the name through the window onto the floor.

Certainly our romantic evening started off right: Pickle Point oysters topped with shallots and a novel dab of olive oil. Then we segued to the $50 tasting menu, adding the foie gras. A little cup of cream of veg soup - yellow beet, parsnip, salsify, carrot -spittled with truffle oil warmed the soul.

Faithful readers, you were far from my mind up till then. But along came his appetizer of scallops, perfectly grilled on one side, griddle-kissed on the other. Did I mention they sat on slow-cooked leeks, and were citrused up with saffron-squash ooze? I coveted them (partly because my snails with noodles, brightly accented with sun-dried tomatoes, weren't quite right). We shared - he's such a gent - and I realized I should, too, share the moment with you.

Next was seared foie gras on a bed of brown lentils and rough chopped watercress. Sure, it tasted fabulous, what with a bit of bright beet juice playing up the sweetness. But the texture did it for me. Pushing up round lentils through the soft liver with my tongue, biting down on the cress stems. Pure fun. I asked my swain what he thought. "Just a moment," he said, "I'm chasing the dragon."

The menu included beef cheeks, which I'd been craving of late, and Cocagne's came in a braise of glory. Tender, a bit gluey in a cooked-tendon way, tastily topped with chanterelle mushrooms. Their consistency inspired us to talk of cow face physiognomy. What would lamb cheeks be like? And why don't chefs offer braised heart for Valentine's?

A tangy French Mamirolle and milder Quebec Fêtard cheese slowed us down for the dessert. The sweet ménage à trois was a chocolate brûlé (whose crust lost its crackle, too bad), orange segments with sour cream sorbet and a touch of lemon, and a coffee parfait with sour cherries and a grape-must reduction. Playful endnotes to an amorous evening.

Loiseau keeps the usual menu short and simple, always offering the foie gras, and meat and fish dishes of the day. Wines start at a budget-respecting $30 a bottle. We happily took up the suggested pairings by the glass, and the friendly waiters are happy to chat drinks and nosh.

Inadvertently bringing work on a date isn't usually so fun. But now that I've reviewed Cocagne, it'll be pure frivolity next time we're there.

Cocagne: Bistro orgueilleux
3842 St-Denis; 286-0700
www.bistro-cocagne.com
Dinner for two, not including tax, tip, drinks: $50-$90
 
 

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Cocagne     i agree with the previous writers that this is not a restaurant the average joe and jane are going to visit regularly, but we have a rather cultured city, with much to offer. Sometimes unfortunately, some experiences cost an arm and a leg. but as long as the quality is there, sometimes the rarity of the occasion will make it especially worthwhile. you certainly don't appreciate the quality of a mcdo because you can get it anywhere, anytime, for pretty cheap. i'll admit 90 dollars is a lot for one meal, but the odd time i've coughed up a serious amount for a meal it was a special event, i savoured it and will remember it. i think ms haldane's review quite reflected the formality of the restaurant. unfortunately, being the average jane i am, i'm not brushed up on all of the fancy-food lingo-- but it fits for this type of review. and when i'm in the mood for a fancy restaurant, i may check out the fois gras at cocagne. being the wordsmith that i am, i can't help but notice the similarity of the name to a certain white powder...
Erica Wallace	{44 votes}	February 26th, 2005
Mmm cow cheeks..??     Well one thing that I can say about cocagne is that they really don't waste their meat. Who would have thought that cow cheeks could be so wonderful? Well despite Mr. Haldane's good taste I will have to pass. Guess I'm not up to spending 50$-90$ on something that sounds so strange. The tasting menu on the other hand sounds like a great way to try out this resto and would probably be a good reason to visit Cocagne.
Tanya Parvez	{19 votes}	February 27th, 2005
Let's welcome the new kid on the block!     Toqué lost a lot of intimacy when it moved downtown ... still great food and service but in a much larger, less cozy atmosphere. Great to see a new kid in its old location ... and from the sounds of Maeve's review, one that takes advantage of it in terms of keeping it warm, close-up and personal ... or in other words, intimate. The food sounds scrumptious too ... if a bit on the pricey side. But for those special occasions, like the one Maeve writes about, sometimes splurging is called for. Will definitely be giving it a try.
Malcolm Andrews	{17 votes}	February 26th, 2005
Shuck this!     The seafood sounds great (oysters and scallops) however, I am French Canadian like many people here and another over priced French restuarant doesn't sound appetizing. If I am gonna blow over $30.00 bucks for wine and try to dine a girl spending another $90.00 on food, then I am going to Baton Rouge for the great ribs. I won't be at Cocagne.
P. Eric Poirier	{17 votes}	February 26th, 2005
Mmm... I love sushi     Especially the ones my mom makes. Hi mom, thanks for the sushi! They are great! I love you! You see, it's not the price you pay for the sushi, or the restaurant atmosphere, or the fact that you eat in a room full of strangers who are no doubt dissecting each other's conversations, or being showered with east asian servants trying to replicate a Japanese feeling, etc. that make the sushi taste great, it's the love that whoever cooked it put in and your reciprocal appreciation that makes sushi such a great dish! Sushi is the perfect vessel for showing someone you care by putting some effort into making it! Sure says more than giving an apple to your teacher. Just remember the famous saying: Eat this eat that, eat not too much not too little, eat healthy! -- from yours truly, YJY, culinary advisor, circa 2005, Feb. 25
First Staff	{16 votes}	February 25th, 2005
Brownie points for caring!     Let's give our favourite critique brownie points for showing us just how much she loves her job. I mean going out of her way to Cocagne: Bistro orgueilleux her restaurant review when in fact it was her moment of quality time with her mate. Merci Maeve. I am a regular reader of Maeve's column and although I like her covering different aspects of food and the way it is prepared, it's her restaurant critiques where she excels. This one takes no exception as she sets the mood, talks about the food and gives her opinion on what was good and what could have made the experience better. It is to be expected that we see a French restaurant reviewed more than others but she goes out of her way to bring us the different facts of Montreal restaurant cuisine.
Ronny Pangia	{21 votes}	February 25th, 2005
Too Much Fat and Too Much Money     I feel like I have to run to the toilet after just reading this article. I guess I have pretty simple tastes because not one thing sounded appetizing to me. And the price? I would much rather go to a nice steak house for $90 and really get my moneys worth. Usually in these frou-frou shishi restaurants the portions are tiny. I'm going to skip this one- even for a special occasion.
Heath Abram	{18 votes}	February 24th, 2005
Cocagne - Not for Me     I usually love reading reviews on food, because it open up my appetite. But unfortunately, not in this case. The prices are way to steep for me to even go try out this restaurant then the menu really does not sound appetizing. Oh come on, cow cheeks, what else will they serve. Usually when you hear about dessert, your mouth waters, by mouth didn't respond. For the price they paid, I'm sure there are lot more interesting or should I say appetizing restaurants to pick from...Cocagne is definately not for me
Rita Reale	{13 votes}	February 24th, 2005
Another restaurant for the higher class!     Amazing what you can get if you are willing to pay. Yes it all boils down to weather you can afford to or if you are willing to pay 50 to 90 dollars for one meal . I am sure it was all very tasty and we all agree the menu is fantastic but for the rich and famous. I am sure that it is not cheep to run a Restaurant, but with prices like that you will have quality but not to many customers. People will look at the menu and will not even attempt to taste the food so was it all worth it. At that price you can't even depend on the regulars because the price is too steep. The average person might go for meal like this once or twice a year if they would go at all.
Maria Cecillia Silva	{10 votes}	February 24th, 2005
Man of great taste     could you tell the other French Canuck, P. Eric Poirier to go to La Belle Province instead of Le Bâton Rouge : he will save a few more bucks.
Yves Graton		September 27th, 2006
Nope     I live in ottawa and this review was absolutely a wonderful breath of fresh air to read . It seems as though the reviewer actually enjoys their job, as oppossed to all the restaurant critics in ottawa just seem to complain all the time. Or maybe they are right and theirs nothing good to eat in ottawa........naw.
Angus Bennett	{2 votes}	March 2nd, 2005

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