My latest find, and I really do think this is tops, is a little corner resto tucked away on Casgrain. The first time I saw the sun-filled spot I was sure it was catering to the Latina factory workers in the duvet and schmatta factories nearby. But the workers' half-hour lunch breaks and low wages keep them away. Instead, the more leisured and flush tech folk from the Main head here for the cheap comida corrida, a.k.a. the lunch special. At night locals are drawn in, and who wouldn't be tempted by the inviting orange and blue walls, striped tablecloths and attractive chunky clay plates? You can admire cute wiggly cacti and photos of Mexico: taco stands, a bakery, stacks of pots, the Guadalajara cathedral.
The owners, a couple from Mexico, are serving truly Mexican food, not Tex Mex fajita tomfoolery. The wife was trained at a Mexican culinary school, and as soon as you order she flies into action behind the counter, wielding frying pans and salsa squeeze bottles.
Smartly, the menu has a roster of tapas-sized items so people can sample the unfamiliar without serious commitment. Pork, chicken, even beef tongue, in deeply rich sauces with the likes of peanuts, almonds, dark chocolate, tomato or tangy tomatillo. For less meaty fare try cactus strips, zucchini, or
The latter comes chopped finely and heated in sour cream, with a tang of cilantro. Great mouthfeel of crunch and soft. We also tried the poblano pepper strips with corn and cream, with a spicy bite and vinegar tinge of pickled peppers (fresh ones being hard to come by).
My caballero and I swooned over the pork in mole verde, for the light nuttiness of the pumpkin seed and sesame seed sauce. And a pipián sauce of sesame and peanut with chicken was ancho-pepper hot. We ate substantial main dishes, mine a chicken in adobado, richly flavoured, dryly sauced and subtly fruity. His Veracruz-style fish in tomato and onion was nice, but lacked green olives which are needed to make it sing. The salsa is spectacular - spicy with a smoky roast chili flavour. I would normally slather it on everything, but I preferred to let the food's character shine. Eating here reminded me that Mexican cuisine is about warm nutty flavours and sharp vinegary ones, with soft-cooked onions bridging the two. Not brassy heat and shock but subtle stealth and awe.
I returned with two amigos for a lunch that started with a not-too-sweet creamy corn soup (there was also a tomato soup teeming with short noodles). Mains included the same marinated chicken, a crispy fillet of sole, and a comfort-food synchronizada - basically a grilled ham 'n' cheese sandwich made with two flour tortillas "synchronized" atop one another. A generous amount of salad and fluffy rice came alongside. Fried tortilla chips, light, crisp and salty, were replenished as needed, along with salsa. Upon asking for celery juice, we heard the whir of a blender, and soon a frothy, refreshing drink was served. We also quaffed agua de Jamaica, a tart, cranberry-like hibiscus iced tea.
The special included a small "flan" for dessert, but we tried the crêpe drizzled with duskily sweet goat milk caramel (far superior to wussy cow milk caramel) and three-milk cake - condensed, evaporated and regular. The hombre of our group called it a girly dessert because of its soft texture and milky taste.
Come summer, they'll put tables outside to catch the sun. Get a jump on warmth by heading there now.
Maria Bonita5269 Casgrain; 807-4377Dinner for two, tax included: $20-$25Lunch specials: $7.75 each
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