La Paryse: A nice, friendly maelstrom photo: Joseph Yarmush

We had guests in town. Of the brother- and sister-in-law variety. With 22-month-old twins, no less, all the way from the wild flats of Saskatchewan. Hence the rental vehicle and the sudden immersion into the city's family activities, such as penguin watching at the Biodôme and calèche riding...

Now, Montreal restaurants aren't the most child-friendly, unless you go to a family-run place, preferably Latin American or Asian. Where to take the toddlers and show a funky time to the grown-ups?

We chose La Paryse, famed burger joint open since 1980, just off St-Denis on Ontario. We arrived about 6 p.m. only to find a distressing lineup. We were approaching tyke-sized nuclear explosion and gentle adult anxiety when the unflappable cute boy at the cash said we could sit at the bar, and pulled out crayons and paper as distractions while we waited. A group of six left and the staff put the table right for us, bringing out only one highchair but also a booster seat.

Once we arranged ourselves some child fussiness ensued. "Remember those kids we were never going to have in public?" bro-in-law said. I thought they were being pretty good, but my litmus test is forever skewed by a younger sister who was such a loud creature we joked she'd grow up to be an opera singer. Then she really did.

Other than classic meat 'n' bun, La Paryse offers simple salads, club sandwiches and three kinds of veggie burgers - tofu, pinto bean and blue cheese-nut. Sadly, I was distracted enough by the kids that I forgot to ask before ordering if they do burgers rare. Since the recent demise of the skanky but beef-blessed St-James Pub, I was worried I'd never eat a red patty again. It was only after our mozzarella bacon burgers arrived that I discovered that yes, you can order rare. The medium-well-done burgers were great nonetheless, with lettucetomatopicklemushroomsdijonmayo. The Sask. contingent raised an eyebrow over the raw sliced mushrooms, though, and said they preferred cooked. My mate deviated from the rest of us by getting the special: cream cheese and bacon. Surprisingly yummy. At the staff's rec, the kids split one child menu of burger and fries (chicken was another option).

"The French fries are awesome," said the mom. And their poutine is solid, with grated cheese, not curds.

Having two kids around led me to two-fisted drinking - a civilized glass of red wine and a superlative chocolate milkshake, rich and thick and not too sweet. One order was large enough to share with all. Well, almost all. Gesturing to his substantial boudin, bro said, "I've got to watch my boyish figure."

"All three of them?" quipped my honey.

We ate, tended to toddlers, and discussed hamburger geometrics and the holy grail of non-slip burgers. Someone needs to invent garnishes with traction.

I asked the mom how she'd gauge the kid-friendly factor. She knows a thing or two about a twin or two. She said the service was prompt, despite being busy. The kids' portions were a good size - "they were small enough so there was no waste."

By the time the twins were starting to put the ketchup bottle cap in their mouths and toss about vinegar, we knew it was time to flee. The staff retained their sang-froid in a maelstrom d'enfants, as did most diners, but bro detected a dirty look from an older couple in the corner. But you know, kids are people too. And deserve consideration in the eat-out world.

La Paryse
302 Ontario E; 842-2040
Dinner for four adults and two tykes, including two glasses of wine, no tip: $76

 
 

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A contender but further research is needed.     I really like La Paryse but to crown it the best burger in town seems a bit pre-emptive. Everyone has his or her favorite. I'd say for those that enjoy a nice glass of wine with their burger probably La Paryse is the best place, though if you are feeling more Westmount you might be able to find a suitable substitute at the Tavern on Greene Avenue. But wine drinking with burgers is, in my estimation, a niche sport rather than the major leagues. So what are the other contenders? Well for beer drinkers its tough to take La Paryse over Vieux (Ol') Dublin. I'd put a medium rare Walsh with a creamy pint of Murphy's stout up against anything at La Paryse. And face it, for the stoner crowd, there is no way La Paryse is going to dethrone the much fabled road trip to Pie IX's original Dic Annes - the only place in town pour manger une l'hambourghini. I have never eaten a burger at Baton Rouge - the ribs are too hard to skip - but I have been told this burger is also a contender. I can personally vouch for more traditional entries at Mr. Steer or Dilallo (though I do not find them to be contenders for best in show). The list goes on. The point is our fair city is developing into a fine place for a burger crawl. So where are the heroes of food reviewing? Come on Hour! Give us what we really want - a head to head of the best in town. Get some young kid whose arteries are up to the challenge and pump him/her so full of burger the onslaught ends when the "meat-sweats" send our valiant reviewer into convulsions... Remember when you start saying "the best", in the immortal words of Ronald McDonald, the Burger King, or maybe it was the Highlander, "There can be only one!" Let the science begin.
Adam Goldberg	{43 votes}	June 5th, 2005
Best burger joint in town     Let's get straight to the point: La Paryse is the best burger joint in town. Biting into one of the many burgers and sandwiches offered by this really cool place will make you quickly forget you ever tried the likes of Daddy Mac, Burger Queen, and Harvey's. Nothing beats eating a burger made of real meat that is so juicy you will be begging for more. Have I got your attention yet? Throw in a great spot for a burger joint (ontario near St. Denis) and you've got a bunch of regulars coming back for more... and more, and more! Un incontournable in Montreal right behind Schwartz's famous smoked meat sandwich.
Ronny Pangia	{45 votes}	June 2nd, 2005
Mouthwatering     Whenever I think of those succulent burgers I lose all control. It is a monumental task to actually choose one(next time think cream cheese) and how big the poutine that will acompany your gateway to happiness. Ahhh...the pursuit of happiness...and for those who think it is a little steep...the quality is there before you so!
Reuven De Souza		January 15th, 2007
~Feast or famine~     Ok, it's on the list but really what's with all the yellow? Yeah, yeah, yellow is a cheery color but no place in their right mind paints their place bright urine yellow because certain colors and certain shades tend to cast certain people and certain platters under a poor light. Yellow is a sickly color and most people, whether they're aware of it or not, tend to psychologically refrain from eating too much at such places. It's just one of the reasons that Burger King removed & reduced the color yellow in the interior design of a lot of their franchises during the 80's. Anyways, sounds like a nice little dive...except fot the lame color scheme from hell.
Pedro Eggers		November 16th, 2005
Move over McDonalds     When you eat at La Paryse you forget about fast food burger joints and enjoy how a hamburger is truly made to be. Delicious with a combination of toppings that are suited to your taste. You will not get a value meal at $6.99 but what you will get is some yummy food for a couple of dollars more. There is a reason this place has a line up because the food is good and tasty.
Selena Lobo	{5 votes}	July 26th, 2005
La Paryse     La Paryse sounds like a great place to go for a family dinner with kids, I'll be sure to try it when I get a visit from my nephew...It has a great variety of food, will please everyone's taste and it is not too expensive (6 people, 76$ is hard to beat). Sounds like a great choice!!
Lise Auger	{10 votes}	June 9th, 2005
That vegetarian rarity     I don't know about "best" because I haven't been to all the burger joints in town (which would seem to be a requirement if one were to use a superlative). One thing I know, though, is that there are precious few other places like this which offer THREE choices of burgers to their vegetarian customers. So when I have to accompany friends who are inclined to splurge on fast food, this does indeed seem to be the place to go. As for the people who bitch about the price tag, $12.67 apiece doesn't seem that excessive, especially if wine is included. But since there are so many math-challenged people out there, shouldn't Hour list per-person averages in the future instead of using total amounts?
Charles Montpetit	{4 votes}	June 8th, 2005
$76.00 for a hamburger meal is alot of money!     P confused here. One critic says he eats the Capoli burger with salad and fries for $700. Then the Article says supper for to adults and two small children cost $76.00.WHat are we eating here folks hamburgers . You can get a bottle on wine for $10.00 at SAQ.What ever you eat becareful because it is hot out there now and your meat has to be fresh and well cooked. I could eat for a whole week for 76.00. Save your money make a nice salade at home with cheese and a glass of wine and save your money.
Maria Cecillia Silva	{7 votes}	June 7th, 2005
Capoli burgers are the best.     Have a go at the Capoli burger before you declare a champ in this category. No soggy bun here. They have an amazing bread-like bun which works amazingly with the meat and seasonings. This place is in front of Vendome metro, on De Maisonneuve and Vendome. Cool place, very casual, always busy but not too busy. For 7$ you get a small salad or fries as well. Warning, these burgers are about the size of 3 big macs, except here you can identify what you are eating and it is made in front of you.
S P	{5 votes}	June 7th, 2005
Snootyburger     La Paryse is ok if you like your burgers dribbling with fromage bleu, raw mushrooms and such-- too frou-frou for me. Besides, on my last visit, my "medium" cooked burger was tepid and raw in the middle-- a real health no no, especially in the summertime. I'm a Mister Steer fan from way back. Just amazing, old fashioned beef burgers with basic trimmings, plus excellent fries. And BTW, $76 for 2 kids & 2 adults does NOT sound family-friendly to me.
Stephanie Ein	{4 votes}	June 6th, 2005
Mmmm...burgers     Judging by how Maeve and the readers of Hour have raved about La Paryse, this place sounds like a refreshing change from the same old fast-food joint that are all over the city (and the world). Juicy burgers made from real beef, no fillers or other crap. French fries that are tasty, and hopefully are trans-fat free. Poutine made with shredded cheese not cheese curds. And to top it all off, a milkshake (I hope they've got vanilla 'cause I could sure go for one in this summer heat). No doubt about it, I'm there!!!
Basil James	{9 votes}	June 3rd, 2005
Burgers eh?     Best Burger place I heard of was from Alton's on Parc Street. But since everyone talks of this one maybe if I have a late night munchie I'll head over there. I've always considered the burger plain unless its homemade with real meat and this place sounds like it uses it, and more. I don't have kids however so I hope to still have a good time. :).
Alexander Yu	{8 votes}	June 3rd, 2005
I shall experience my own adventure with my grandchildren     Thank you Maeve Haldane for suggesting another kid friendly place and menu where portion size in considered. I am forever searching for places to take the kids and know that we will all enjoy the food. The location is also a nice area to explore, now that summer is here and the weather is finally cooperating. Thank you.
Lee Feldman	{10 votes}	June 2nd, 2005
Love It!     I have been going to this place for years! The hamburgers are outstanding and so are the fries. I'm a little hesitant about giving it a plug cause I find it's already crowded enough! But since Maeve spilled the beans, I have to go along and say the truth. As Tony the Tiger would say, " It's Greeeeaaaaat!''
Heath Abram	{11 votes}	June 2nd, 2005
La Paryse     Maeve is brave for accompaning two twin toddlers out in public. That being said it is a good day when the bill is minimal the food is good and the kids don't terrorize all the other patrons and staff in a restaurant. This place has been in business for over 20 years because they have good service and a wide variety of good eats.
Renessa Cabrera	{9 votes}	June 2nd, 2005
Yep, best burgers in town!     And the Poutine is not bad at all...Owned by a Montrealer named Paryse, this place is much better than any of these fast-food chains: Wendy's, A& W, McDonald, Harvey's, Burger King, etc. Why throwing your money away and give it to those big corporations when you can get fresh ingredients and help the local economy??? Hmmm, I'm thinking about their Betty Boop burger, and I think I'll make a stop there on my way home tonight... Bon appétit!
Annick Poulin	{15 votes}	June 2nd, 2005
2 Kids and FOUR adults     Listen, I read through all of these reviews.....and those of you complaining about the price must be dislexic. The author of the article said 4 adults and 2 children, NOT 2 adults and 2 children. Quit whining about the price. If you think about it, 4 adults and 2 children for $76 bucks that's VERY good. Included in that are 2 glasses of wine and a milk shake, NOT TOO BAWWWWD if you ask me.
Tony Tagress		November 10th, 2005
good food     best burger or not , it is still a damn fine burger, the staff are friendly and the entire place is clean and doesn't reek of stale grease. Consistently good food at good prices. Don't know about ordering burgers rare, house ground or not.
Michael Elliott		June 26th, 2005
Good alternative!     La Paryse provides a great choice for a burger! Why? Because I love hamburgers, and why should I be forced to eat the crappy stuff that Mcdonalds and Burger King put out? Sure I could go to a bar, but then it is loud and smokey. La Paryse is the perfect place for me! Sure, some people might find it "fancy" for a burger joint. But who says hamburgers have to be done one way? And there are "traditional" choices on the menu. Check it out!
Eric Wilson	{1 vote}	June 7th, 2005
Good combination: grease and taste     What is great in this world, is to have the choice to go eat sushi or vegetarian food...or a great burger and fries! I welcome all those who do not have health problem to try it. For the other, make some exercises before eating there: you will appreciate the food for its taste instead of its grease.
Jean Goulet	{5 votes}	June 6th, 2005

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