Qui l'eût Cru? photo: Joseph Yarmush

Then there's the raw food movement, usually an extreme version of vegetarianism. According to the excellently weird living foods website (www.living-foods.com), eating raw is about not heating foods above 105 to 116 degrees Fahrenheit (opinions differ) lest you destroy valuable enzymes that are essential to digestion and keeping us toxin-free.

Think about it. Cooking is out. Baking is out. Ixnay on rice, pasta and bread. Dehydrating is kosher, as is whizzing, mushing and pulverizing.

The hip little spot Cru, open for close to three months now, is the first raw resto in the province and the third in Canada.

The chef is influenced by Asiatic themes, and a fan of the health benefits of keeping it raw.

The only obvious hint of a crunchy-granola ethic is the vibrant green notes in the décor, from tabletop stripes to fab retro wallpaper to verdant ceiling paint. It's cute and makes for a good date spot, despite reports of one disastrous first-and-last encounter here! Just goes to show that eating raw is not dangerous, but dating can be hazardous to your well-being.

The menu is tapas-style and offers two portion sizes: small, between $4 and $6; and large, roughly double.

Cru's raw includes meat. Fortunately wine and sake count as raw, since they're not overheated during processing, and they've slipped in a few rum and vodka drinks. As I sipped my amazing cinnamon-graced pear, ginger and sake cocktail while checking out my meat options, I thought, 'This is my kind of raw bar.' My crudist mate, happy with his mint-and-green-tea mojito, agreed.

We overordered, keen to try as much as possible. In our first round, a smoked foie gras was oddly cream cheese-like, though the accompanying onions marinated in Banyuls vinegar were lovely. More successful was the prosciutto-style duck with thin apple slices, but it suffered from an oversprinkling of truffle oil. I found the deer tartare too gamey (it had a higher fat content than most, the server explained) but I liked that it was paired with dehydrated cranberries and a small pot of Labrador tea. A lamb tartare with Trapanese pesto (like regular pesto, but with tomato and almond) struck a good balance, and I quite liked the bit of swordfish with kalamata tapenade, but my raw man found the olives overpowered the fish.

Thus far, balance seemed to be a bit of a problem. When you can't fall back on cooking to marry flavours, hitting the sweet spot of savouries is an exacting task. But their drinks are superbly composed, like the lavender, lime, honey and rum cocktail I downed too fast at this point in the meal.

The next round fares better on the palate's scale. Cru's spin on a BLT - a little sandwich of scallop, prosciutto and dried tomato topped with cracked pepper - is great fun; the salmon gravlax with yogurt mustard dressing is satisfying; and a cool soup of coconut and parsley root is a warming flavour combo. A chunk of tuna with a veggie tangle on top is meant to be eaten all in a mouthful, even better if you dollop on some of the bloody Caesar granité first.

The white beet "lollipops" with mozzarella and smoked herring, as well as the shaves of fennel and carrot in a homemade mayo, make me wish they actually had more vegetable offerings.

For dessert I had a divine little tart of a mascarpone-like filling, topped with diced pineapple and mint. I detected a smidge of fridginess in the otherwise admirable powdered almond and cashew-butter crust.

My sweetie had the banana sabayon, a comforting moussey concoction served with cookies made from peanut powder. Cru shows raw talent indeed.

Cru
220 Mont-Royal E.; 844-2950
Dinner for two, not including tax, drinks, tip: $25-$55
(Watch for the daily special, like five tapas for $12 on Sundays)

 
 

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Try it first     By the sounds of it, most people who have commented here haven't tried raw food or Cru itself. I went there last Friday night with some friends, and we had a fantastic time! The whole atmosphere of the restaurant was fun and bright, the waitress was helpful and the food was delicious! Now, I'm not vegetarian and enjoy my well-done steaks along with the rest of you (after all, I'm Australian, I was brought up on barbecue-ing), but the food tasted fantastic (although as is usual, some dishes were better than others). There's nothing wrong with eating raw meat - as long as it's high quality (which this most definately was), there's very little chance of salmonella or similar diseases. After all, we are animals (perhaps more highly evolved than the rest, but the fact remains), so in evolutionary terms, we're perfectly designed to eat raw meat. I'm not entirely convinced that the health benefits are all that they're touted to be by proponents of the raw movement, but I don't think there's any health problems from eating raw food, especially when it's prepared with care in a restaurant. I'm not saying you all have to go out and eat this every day (I know I won't! For one thing, I agree that it's a little light on for mid-winter) - but don't discount it simply because it's not something you're used to.
Sarah Arnold		March 15th, 2006
Carnivores on the defensive     Wow, I haven't seen so many meat-eaters feel threatened in a long time. Funny how a lone review that finally caters to the raw-food movement brings out all sorts of defensive reactions from those whose cup of tea this ain't. Guess how we vegetarians feel the rest of the year when the reviews focus solely on meat dishes--yet you don't see us showering carnivores with unwarranted criticism on all those occasions, do you? It's particularly odd to see carnivore commenters invoke health reasons for putting down this restaurant, as their very habit of eating meat on a regular basis is a much bigger threat to them than any vegetarian dish in this restaurant. Check out http://www.pbs.org/saf/1104/features/castelli2.htm for more info.
Charles Montpetit		December 31st, 2005
Kitchen Experimental     I love new kinds of cuisine, whether created to make us healthier beings or for sheer enjoyment. Raw food is a relatively new trend to hit the mass consumer but has quite obviously been current for centuries - since the pre-fire days in fact. Many native tribes eat raw meat and vegetables (Australian aborigines, eskimoes etc.) but this is a first time I have heard of a restaurant selling this kind of food. I was happy to see that the food offered was a lot more than crudités, but having ogled over Charlie Trotter & Roxanne Klein's book RAW a year or so ago, I would have been surprised. Raw cuisine is now pretty nouvelle cuisine with a lot of care being taken over presentation as well as the blending of textures and flavours, something that from Haldane's review it seems Cru needs to pay a bit more attention to. Talking of innovations, a chef friend of mine told me about an institute in France that uses an intelligent computer program to combine different chemicals together to determine which ones make sublime tastes. They then match these chemicals with foods, which sometimes makes crazy combinations such as oysters with melted chocolate orange, for example. The Fat Duck, a relatively new restaurant in the UK, has taken a similar attitude in its philosophy, which is outlined in full on their website. It all basically boils down to eating being a "multi-modal process" that involves all the senses, not just taste. Heston Blumenthal, the restaurant's founder, is very interested in why certain foods seem disgusting, and his menu certainly challenges our notions of delicious! Take for example Smokes Bacon and Egg ice cream or Cauliflower Risotto with chocolate jelly. This kind of exploration is really pushing back culinary boundaries, and people love it - there is a long waiting list to eat at The Fat Duck. I'm sure Cru will have as many converts for its raw meals.
Ellen Reid	{13 votes}	November 25th, 2005
It's Closed!!!     It's now Called Chez Gabriel 220, av. Mont-Royal Est 514 678-8387 Section principale : Alimentation Catégorie principale : Boulangeries
Louis-Philippe Talbot		October 11th, 2008
Can't Wait To Try It     I'm a French Canadian raw foodist living in Japan! Although I am also vegetarian I look forward to going to Cru during the holidays when I willl be living it up in Montreal. Thank you so much for reviewing this restaurant, now I know a great place to hang out and socialize.
Gabrielle Gingras		December 17th, 2007
Not for my taste     Although raw food restos seem to be the latest craze, along with raw foods, this is something i just might have to steer clear from for a bit longer. The idea of raw food is scary, and in all honesty, im one hell of a chicken when it comes to raw foods. In any case, i'm excited to see where and how far this food craze will lead, and maybe after some convincing, i will go give it a shot myself. Until then, I'll have my steak medium-well.
Meghna Patel	{3 votes}	December 1st, 2005
Diverse As Life Itself     As for me, I appreciate raw fruits and vegetables. In fact, I find I enjoy uncooked food(including fish and meats) over those that are cooked. I guess this is why I enjoy sushi so much. Salads with proscuitti-style duck(raw), is delightful. Mixing various foods, when raw, gives it a down to earth goodness, that just about anybody should appreciate. However, "raw foods" can be considered an acquired taste, and are not for everybody. I hope to head on over to Cru sometime soon, with a special someone! It seems interesting, as I'm always out to try new and exciting things. I recommend being accustomed to raw foods if you find that you eat too many cooked ones. I've tried it, and it's great!
Tyler Cole	{4 votes}	November 23rd, 2005
Goes with my diet     I'm on a raw veggie diet right now, gotta get them enzymes...and this spot sounds like the perfect place to keep up on this diet. It even has the bonus of serving meat to those who prefer that sort of thing. I think it is a great idea, no matter what time of year to boost our energy with fresh raw veggie. I think it wouldn't hurt to give up the stews and roasts for one visit to support a new restaurant, would it?
Joyce Stemkowsky	{14 votes}	November 22nd, 2005
To Each Their Own     I am not a person who is overly passionate about food. I enjoy food. I certainly would find a world based on nutrient pills a very very sad place to live in, but on the flip side, I will eat whatever I would have to in order to fuel my body. That being said, I have never experienced the feeling of polarization that this article has given me. I could be further unenthused about a style or trend as I am with the topic of this piece. I'm its own way, it has broadened my taste in the culinary world, by nudging me towards every meal that I've ever enjoyed. The dishes in this article make me drool for a nice medium-well steak and a baked potato. To each their own however. I don't wish the place ill success. And perhaps I will try some of thier dishes just to validate my opinion. I'm fairly sure my tastes will not change though. There are some things you just know about yourself. Like I know I've never been shot before, but I am fairly certain I wouldn't enjoy the experience.
Josh Piche	{12 votes}	November 22nd, 2005
Not for me..     I'll have to pass on this being a favorite spot to dine, maybe just the hor d'oeuvres in the winter would be a treat (like those drinks which were the only thing that sounded hot!!) and perhaps it could be a great lunch spot on those hot summer days we have. I like my food cooked in our cold winter climates, I see no comfort foods here.
Andrea Silva	{4 votes}	November 21st, 2005
Mad Cow?     A restaurant serving raw food will most likely not make it around here. It is the first in the province, and probably the last. To be completely honest, I'm shocked that there are 2 others in Canada! Meat needs to be cooked or at least slightly cooked. I have to admit, I am a big fan of sushi, but raw fish versus raw deer... what would you choose? There are so many diseases going around due to poorly made meat and I personally don't want to increase my chances of poisoning myself. Does Mad Cow mean nothing anymore?
Cathy Spathis	{6 votes}	November 21st, 2005
Raw Meat...eek!     I have to admit that I'm not a big fan of eating raw foods. I do like to eat raw vegetables but I draw the line at meat (heck, I've never eaten sushi and I never will). Meat must be cooked for health reasons and it's always recommended to eat meat well-done so all of that nasty bacteria (like e-coli) are killed. After all, the whole point of eating is to have food go into our stomachs not to only have it pumped out in a hospital later on. This also has to be one of the least tantalizing menus I've read in the Hour (smoked foie gras? prosciutto-style duck? deer tartare? white beet "lollypops"?). No, thank you. I'll just stick to eating meat the old-fashioned way: cooked!
Basil James	{6 votes}	November 19th, 2005
Non Appetit     Usually, after reading a review from Maeve, my mouth is watering, but not in this case. I do love vegetables but that's as far as I'll go for raw food. Any meat that raw, is like asking for trouble. All meat should be cooked and vegetables are good anyway they are done. The only thing that really peaked my appetite was the dessert and that's about it.
Rita Reale	{9 votes}	November 18th, 2005
I'd maybe give it a try but...     I've gotta say that for the most part I have to agree with the other commentators. Nothing in this article appeals to me in the slightest; the only thing I'd be tempted to try is that chunk of tuna, as I know raw tuna can be tasty as I am quite fond of the sushi. But raw duck? Deer? My dad and brother are hunters and I've got to say I hate deer cooked, nevermind straight off the animal. I've had salmonella once, and believe me it was enough. Still, the very idea of sushi ten years ago would have been enough to set my gag reflex in motion, so I guess, if someone were to offer to treat me, I might be inclined to try this place. Until that day comes, I am of the firm stance that the only flesh to be eaten raw should come out of the ocean.
Jesse Angell	{10 votes}	November 18th, 2005
Stick-to-your-bones good!     this restaurant sounds like an interesting experience... maybe once. but i do think that in canada, with our cold winter you need nice warm, stick to the bones food like cooked meat, veggies, maybe some sauce & bread too! i can't imagine eating there in the dead of winter. it sounds like an interesting experience for a summer night when you are feeling adventurous. though, the drinks do sound absolutely scrumptious!
Erica Wallace	{8 votes}	November 18th, 2005
You Almost Had Me     I have many friends that are part of this raw food movement so i was excited to see that Montreal had a restraunt catering to them. Then came disappointment. All of my companions that enjoy raw foods are vegetarian/vegan and it seemed to me that those options are limited at Cru. while readung the review i kept waiting in anticipation for mention of the ever popular raw "lasagna", this is a staple recipe in this community and one i have not had the pleasure of indulging in. Had this been offerd on the menu I would have most certainly headed there tonight. As it looks the cocktails seem to be the only redeeming quality, and I already have a place to get those. I think i will take a pass on this place untill the menu becomes less limiting.
Natalie Sole	{7 votes}	November 18th, 2005
A novelty restaurant     I have to agree with Jay's comment. Not one thing on this menu really appealed to me. The only thing that interested me at Cru was the cocktails. There is something comforting about a warm meal. I got a cold and sterile feeling when I read this review... cold and sterile are words to describe a hospital ... not a restaurant. While I am not vegetarian, most of my friends are vegetarian or vegans. I do not know ANY people who are into the "raw food movement". Although, I am sure that the chef is very talented, He must be creative to come up with ways to make raw dishes exciting and interesting, I have a feeling that this restaurant will not be around for a very long time. It will attract the adventurous eater who is willing to give it a try, the "fad" eater -- the person who will go along with any new food movement because of the hype and probably some vegans and vegetarians. Other than that I really don't think this restaurant will see that much success.
Kara Hughes	{19 votes}	November 18th, 2005
Doesn't sound like healthy food to me...     i am not an expert in food, but with all the viruses out there, shouldn`t we be extra careful with the food we eat. Isn`t cooking food one of the main ways of getting rid of bacteria and viruses in our food? Sounds like i will skip this new restaurant and try one that if anything will overcook my food.
Alberto Olivera	{9 votes}	November 17th, 2005
~Feast or famine~     Food is food and if food is great I'll generally not complain but this probably won't be one of those cases. Y'see, I actually do like all kinds of foods including veggie joints but in the long haul I need my medium rare steaks, steamed & marinated bass, lightly fried mushrooms and grilled eggplant. No, not all at once! That'd be crazy talk. No, my point is that I disagree with the very notion that cooking, baking, frying, mashing, mushing and pulverizing are out when it comes to fine eating. Do you eat just keep going and be healthy or do you eat for the total possibility of experiences open to you? Yes, healthy can sometimes taste great but often a little creativity in the kitchen makes you even happier. And honestly, isn't that the point for a lot of us when we eat?
Pedro Eggers	{17 votes}	November 17th, 2005
You Only Live Once     What I eat may not be that good for me but I have to say I really enjoy it. Nothing on the menu at this restaurant really appeals to my tastebuds. I have never said to a friend "I'm craving some salmon gravlax, let's go get some!!!" And when I do eat meat or fish, I want it thoroughly cooked. All these vegans claim to be healthier but have you ever noticed how sickly many of them look? Thanks for the review, but I'm going to stick to my old favourites.
Heath Abram	{6 votes}	November 17th, 2005
Love raw food     I really want to go to that restaurant, I love raw food. I like tartar of any kind of meat and had beef, horse, deer and bison tartar, it's so good. And what about a little ceviche, raw fish, when I go to a sushi place, I like the sashimi, only raw fish. And raw fruit and vegetables more common but some really good thing came out. I like the concept of that place.
Julie Flynn		November 24th, 2005
I will have to graze in my back yard!     I think I will have to graze in my back yard at these prices. It just seems all too raw to eat. I don't mind the vegetarien , but eating it raw is taking it alittle too far. We are not cows or rabbits , we are people and to eat it raw and still have to pay a such a high price , why would anybody want to leave home.
Maria Cecillia Silva	{4 votes}	November 20th, 2005

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